The Joffre Jewels and the Granny Effect

Middle Joffre Lake

She moved gingerly across the log bridge, her silver hair dispersing flecks of sunshine into the air, tossing starlight in the shadowed realm of the trees. Her two grandchildren cheered as she came across to the side of the small creek that I was waiting at. A couple with humungous backpacks followed.

"Planning to spend the night up there?" I said cheerfully, realizing that it was more a statement than a question.

"Yes," the grandmother replied, with equal cheeriness. I smiled, wished them well, and hurried down the trail to the lowest of the three Joffre Lakes where my wife Margaret and our dog Baby waited. I had left them an hour earlier to quickly hike up to the Middle Lake. We had driven a long way from Richmond, stopping briefly at Shannon Falls near Squamish, and were absolutely blown away when we set eyes on Joffre Lake, barely five minutes' walk from the car park. Its blue-green beauty was enough to take one's breath away - "picture postcard perfect" was a good description, and I have absolutely no qualms about using this hackneyed phrase. Framed by dense evergreens, the lake formed the tranquil base for the glaciers that shimmered high above, hinting at greater treasures lurking a few thousand feet higher.

Lower Joffre Lake. 5 minutes from the parking lot!

I related my brief encounter with Granny to Margaret and as I did so, a seed was sown: hell, if a grandmother could contemplate going up to camp at the highest of the Joffre Lakes, what was stopping me?

It was already late in the afternoon in July and we planned to loop back to Richmond via Lillooet and Hope, completing a 600 km circuit. We had left home at 11 am and by the time we returned it was 3 am the next day. Though tired, the image of Granny moving nimbly on the logs and camping below the Metier glacier kept me inspired.

More than two months later, as I approached my 54th birthday (but not a grandfather!), I decided it was time to take destiny into my own hands. The afternoon of 26th September found me toiling up the trail with my paraphernalia on my back. It was a perfect autumn day and I sweated profusely as I hauled myself up to the Middle Lake, glad that the steepest bit of the hike was over. As I neared the campsite, a hiker cheerfully informed me that there were still a few vacant spots left close to the Bear Safe Food Cache container that the provincial park authorities so thoughtfully install at such places.

I pitched my tent dutifully where the young man had indicated and in a short while regretted camping so close to so much human traffic on such a busy weekend!

Campsite at Upper Joffre Lake. 27 Sept 2009.

Upper Joffre Lake
To compensate, I woke up at the crack of dawn the next day and set off up the trail to the foot of the seracs poised at the toe of the glacier which spilled down from the snowfields above. The effort was worth it as I could see all the three lakes, stacked one above the other. It happened to be my birthday and I could not have wished for a more satisfying gift than this vision of the Joffre Jewels!

Thank you, Granny!

The Joffre Jewels from below the glacier.

Giant ice cube for my birthday drink!

Map of area

Middle Joffre Lake

Peak above Upper Joffre Lake


 

Comments

  1. Yes indeed. We all love your pictorial narrative Blog. The snaps are just too good.... learning a lot from them.

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  2. Perfect as usual.. and the pictures.. aaaah.. makes me want to join you there :)

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  3. Good to see you getting out there! Looks pristine. We must do this hike once im back :D

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  4. Good to see you getting out there! Looks pristine. We must do this hike once im back :D

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  5. Welcome back to your Accidental Blogging. Great Blog as always.

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  6. The lake is a beautiful sight, really wish I can do it some day!

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  7. Good to see you back here Aloke. Cheers

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